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Duet Wifi – Update Firmware

Download and update new firmware

Download new firmware

If you do not allready have the newest firmware, head over to the Github repository containing the RepRapFirmware.

Here we click on Clone or download and then Download Zip.

Take the downloaded file, which is about 10MB, and extract it to a practical location.

Note: Here’s a direct link to the latest stable¬†files.

Update firmware

  1. Open your webinterface and go to Settings and General tab.
    Here we can see our current version of the 3 different firmwares running on our board.
    Click on Upload File(s) to upload our firmware files.
  2. Filenames and matching name on Web InterfacE:
    DuetWiFiFirmware :: Firmware Version
    DuetWiFiServer :: WiFi Server Version
    DuetWebControl :: Web Interface Version
  3. Browse to the place you extracted the files and find the subfolder:
    Release -> Duet-WiFi -> StableNote:When everything is working and you need some option only available in Edge, you might want to use that one, but for now, we want to use the Stable version. Edge basically means Beta.
  4. Browse to our files and dobbelt-click on our DuetWiFiFirmware file
    You need to press YES for each of the update notifications in order to get all of them updated.

    1. Note: I had some faded error messages, about failing to create/rename a folder, but everything turned out fine anyway.
  5. Now upload our DuetWiFiServer file.
  6. Finally upload the largest file for the Web Control DuetWebControl
  7. When pressing Yes, it takes a while to finish.
  8. When done we get a confirmation dialogue along with a prompt to reload.
  9. We now have the newest firmware installed for all 3 areas:

Duet Wifi official information on firmware:

https://duet3d.com/wiki/Duet_Wifi_Wiki#Updating_Duet_WiFi_firmware

 

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Duet Wifi – Getting started

Welcome to the very first post in a long serie about the Duet Wifi controller.

This first Blog post contains:

  1. Download and install drivers
    1. Installing USB drivers
  2. Activate WiFi
    1. Download Printrun/Pronterface
    2. Activate WiFi using Pronterface
  3. Duet WiFi web interface
    1. Log on to the web interface for the first time
    2. Set WiFi to enabled automatic on startup
  4. Setup IP Address and name of controller
    1. Setup IP Address
    2. Specify a Name and password

Looking at the Duet Wifi Controller, we can see how it has a micro USB connector

A nice subtle usb cable is included with out Duet Wifi, which we’ll use to get started.

Download and install drivers

Before we do anything we head over to the Github repository cotaining the RepRapFirmware.

Here we click on Clone or download and then Download Zip.

Take the downloaded file, which is about 10MB, and extract it to a practical location.

Installing USB drivers

In order to use the Duet Wifi via USB we need to install some drivers. My windows 10 laptop actually installed some drivers on it’s own, and listed the device as generic COM port.

I didn’t test wheter communications worked ok or not, as I proceeded to install the drivers from Github.

Locate your drivers, which are located in RepRapFirmware-dev – Driver

Right-click the Duet.inf file and click Install

Now you say yes and accept any windows popping up on your screen untill it is done installing.

When finished you can see your Duet Wifi listed as Duet 3D printer control electronics in your device manager. Note the number listed after COM. In this case 3. We are going to use this in future steps.


Activate WiFi

 

Download Printrun/Pronterface

In order to activate WiFi, which we need in order to update firmware, we are going to use Printrun/Pronterface.

Note: You can use Repetier host, or any other host software you might like. I just like to use Printrun/Pronterface as it is extremely light and starts up very fast, so very usefull for faultfinding.

Click the Get it icon in the first box, or just click download in the top menu.

Now click the Windows & OSX binaries and find the newest file for Win or Mac, as fits your system. In my case I download the file Printrun-Win-Slic3r-03Feb2015.zip and unzip it somewhere practical.

You do not need to install it, and just start it by double-clicking pronterface.exe, which we do now.

Activate WiFi Using Printrun/Pronterface

  1. Plug in your USB cable to the Duet Wifi and to your computer. Do not turn on your main power source yet.
  2. Open Pronterface and check COM port. It should automatically choose the COM port available. Select manually if needed. In Baudrate you can just select the fastest option and then click Connect.
  3. In the right-hand window you can now see that your printer i Connected / Online.

    Connecting…
    Printer is now online.

  4. Optional: Use the Gcode M503 to get a read out of your config.g file. This file is located on the SD card, so a readout means success.
  5. Enable WiFi by issuing the Gcode command: M552 S1
  6. After up to 30 seconds, you get the following message:

    Now you can see the Duet Wifi access point on your computer.
  7. If you are connected to your network using network cable, you need to disconnect this before connecting to the DuetWiFi network.
  8. Now connect to the DuetWiFi network and go to 192.168.1.1 address in a browser.
    1) Select your Wlan and type in the password for the network.
    2) Specify a hostname, if you want a different name than duetwifi.
    3) Hit Save and reboot button.


  9. Don’t reboot by unplugging USB, but instead issue M552 S0 to turn off Wifi and then M552 S1 to turn it on again.
    You can see how my Duet WiFi were assigned the IP 192.168.1.19

    1. Note: If you need to check the status of the WiFi you can just issue the M522 Gcode command without parameters.
      Here we can see wifi is disabled and our IP address is 192.168.1.10 right now.
    2. Lets turn on the WiFi by issuing the M552 S1 Gcode command.
      The WiFi is now turned on and IP changed to 192.168.1.19 – IP changed as I haven’t yet defined a static IP address.
      Note: It is not possible (as of january 2017) to define a staic IP on the device. You need to assign a static IP via your router

Duet WiFi web interface

Logging on to the web interface for the first time

Now we log onto the Web GUI using the IP address assigned to our Duet WiFi

Here we can see the aweseome web gui of the Duet WiFi from where you can setup and control all aspects of the controller!

Set WiFi to enabled automatic on startup

In order to configure our WiFi to be enabled every time we power up the Duet WiFi we need to edit some config files. Instead of the “usual” way of doing it by editing files in a compiler, like Arduino IDE, and then spend a lot of time compiling and uploading it, we can edit the files directly from Web Gui and just apply the changes without any compiling taking place. Nice ehh? ūüôā

  1. Click on Settings -> System Editor and the Pencil in the config.g file row.
  2. Find the line containin ; M552 S1 and remove the ;
    A semicolon in the start of a line means it is¬†uncommented. This means the line isn’t executed. When we remove the semicolon we changed the uncommented state and enabled the line.
    Note: We can see which file we are editing in the top left corner. In this case config.g
  3. Click Save Changes when done.
  4. Go back to the General tab and click Apply Settings.

 

Setup IP address and Name

 

Setup IP Address

Setting up a static IP address using the M552 Gcode command, or any other way, is not possible with the current firmware:  Known firmware issues

Only way to fix the IP is to setup a static DHCP address in your Router, based on the MAC address of your Duet WiFi Controller.

If you setup a static IP address and do a readout, you will see something like this message, where .100 is the IP I specificed, and .19 is the actual one issued by the DHCP server in my Router.

If specifying static IP worked

When the firmware it fixed you can setup the IP by editing the config.g file, as we did above.

Then insert the following data marked up with the square.

Specify a Name and password

By editing the config.g file, as we allready did a few times above, you can change the name of your machine.

  1. Machine name is defined using the Gcode M550 Pxxxx. It is important to remember to use the P.
    1. Changing machine name is actually the Netbios name and also the name displayed at the top center of the web interface.
  2. While at it, you might also want to change the password to something only you know.
    1. Using the Gcode M551 I have changed it to mypassword – again, you need to remember to use the P for parameter.
    2. By changing the password you will now be met with a password dialogue if you want to manage your printer using the webinterface.
      This is not a high level security measure and should not be used as such. Users are going to have access to the interface but just can’t modify anything.
    3. Change password back to reprap to avoid the security popups like this: M551 Preprap
  3. Now just Save Settings and Apply Settings in the General Tab.

 

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New build – BeTrue3D Printer

Build: BeTrue3D Printer

I’m in the process of planning building a new printer using high quality parts. This post is the first step into that, and I hope you’ll stick around to follow it.
My definition of high quality in short: High quality for me means no printed parts in the moving mechanics parts. Also using quality parts, but not overdoing it, like using ballscrews instead of lead-screws, unless I can get them very cheap.

Case / Cabinet

I have looked at Folkertech FT-5 case, but am still looking for options. I hope the next post can shed some light on my decision.

Previous builds:

I have previously build several Ultimaker 2 clones, and they do print very well. For the new build I also want the bed to go up and down and the XY to go around up top.

But I have some additional requirments for this new build:

Requirments:

The Z-axis must have threads and rods on two sides for more stable bed.
Maybe even on 3 sides to adjust bed using the motors! I know nothing about this method though, so I have to look into this.

Z axis

Z-motors must be linear steppers – meaning build in leadscrew (or ballscrew), so no flexible couplers.
The screws must be fixed up top.
I want to use back-lash nuts, or some Delrim nuts.
Effective Z height doesn’t need to be more than 20cm or so.

XY axes

The XY must be more sturdy than the 6mm rods on Ultimakers.
I know I can use thicker rods by buying special rods, but the XY area must also be somewhat larger, as the new printer is going to be using Diamond hotend and still have 22cm x 22cm print area or a bit more. I do not need 30cm x 30cm or something like that.

Purpose and Goals

This is a machine going to test the Diamond 5way hotend – still prototype where I am allowed to talk and post some about it ūüôā

It’s also going to be working test for several writeups on Duet WiFi controller, Duex5 expansion board and DuePanel touch screen.

Heated bed:

I am going to use a 5-6mm milled aluminium plate or PEI coated aluminium plate.
Am going to put a DC or AC silicone heater from Kenovoo under it.

Electronics being used:

I’m using Duet Wifi + Duex5 + PanelDue 4.3″
PSU: Meanwell SP-480-24 480W 24V/20amp.

 

{:}{:en}

Hey all, welcome to my first post here on BeTrue3D.DK website.

I’m in the process of planning building a new printer using high quality parts. This post is the first step into that, and I hope you’ll stick around to follow it.
My definition of high quality in short: High quality for me means no printed parts in the moving mechanics parts. Also using quality parts, but not overdoing it, like using ballscrews instead of lead-screws, unless I can get them very cheap.

Case / Cabinet

I have looked at Folkertech FT-5 case, but am still looking for options. I hope the next post can shed some light on my decision.

Previous builds:

I have previously build several Ultimaker 2 clones, and they do print very well. For the new build I also want the bed to go up and down and the XY to go around up top.

But I have some additional requirments for this new build:

Requirments:

The Z-axis must have threads and rods on two sides for more stable bed.
Maybe even on 3 sides to adjust bed using the motors! I know nothing about this method though, so I have to look into this.

Z axis

Z-motors must be linear steppers – meaning build in leadscrew (or ballscrew), so no flexible couplers.
The screws must be fixed up top.
I want to use back-lash nuts, or some Delrim nuts.
Effective Z height doesn’t need to be more than 20cm or so.

XY axes

The XY must be more sturdy than the 6mm rods on Ultimakers.
I know I can use thicker rods by buying special rods, but the XY area must also be somewhat larger, as the new printer is going to be using Diamond hotend and still have 22cm x 22cm print area or a bit more. I do not need 30cm x 30cm or something like that.

Purpose and Goals

This is a machine going to test the Diamond 5way hotend – still prototype where I am allowed to talk and post some about it ūüôā

It’s also going to be working test for several writeups on Duet WiFi controller, Duex5 expansion board and DuePanel touch screen.

Heated bed:

I am going to use a 5-6mm milled aluminium plate or PEI coated aluminium plate.
Am going to put a DC or AC silicone heater from Kenovoo under it.

Electronics being used:

I’m using Duet Wifi + Duex5 + PanelDue 4.3″
PSU: Meanwell SP-480-24 480W 24V/20amp.