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BeTrue3D Printer build part 8 – Carriage for 5way Diamond Hotend

Putting the 5way Diamond together.

Aside from this one having 5 heatsinks and the previous version had 3 heatsinks, the method of assembly is the same.

I’m using some high temperature paste to coat on the Heater Cartridge, and fill up the hole for the Thermistor (I’m using a Thermocoupler).

The 5way Diamond will ship with a 60w heater cartrdige, but since they havn’t landed in Denmark yet, I’m using a 12v 30w E3D cartridge which will magically turn into a 60w 120w heater as I’m running my BeTrue3D Printer as a 24v system.

I have contacted E3D to hear about quality of their cartridges – wheter it can sustain the increased voltage/current through it. I can limit the voltage in firmware and hit the recommended 60w, but still need to hear from E3D wheter it’s ok or not.

I’m coating the heater cartridge in the paste, and insert it into the middle hole. At first I had no paste coming up, so I applied a good deal more and inserted it once again, while rotating it.

 

This time I had a deal of excess paste coming up, which I cleaned away using a cotton tip, and then inserted into the hole for thermistor/thermocoupler.

Putting the wires through the heatbarrier and opted to fixate the Thermocoupler wires onto the Heater wires

Screwing on the individual heatsinks, while making sure the Thermocoupler and Heater Cartridge stays in place.

 

Attaching 5way Diamond to Carriage

I’m first going to put a ø2,5mm drill through the holes I made to mount my 40mm fan. I then tapped the holes with an m5 tap to make it easier to mount the fan later on.

 

Afterwards I start by inserting a plastic zip-tie to hold the cables in place, once I clip on the entire assembly onto the Carriage.

Carefully putting the wire through the Carriage, without uprooting the Heater and Thermocoupler, and clip on the assembly. Making sure all 5 heatsinks has clipped on.

   

Securing the cables in place. The insulation is taking too much space, so had to remove some of it.

 

Once I’ve fixed the cables and made sure the heatsinks are all in place, I use a zip-tie to fasten each heatsink to the Carriage.

Attaching a fan

Normally you might use a 50mm fan, but I had this nice 40mm 20mm thick fan lying around, and made my carriage to fit.

  

 

Fasten Carriage to Y Sliders

Finally got the 5way Diamond hotend mounted on my printer and put the bowden tubes in it 🙂

Struds and wirework

I’m printing some struds to fasten the two X sliders on both sides as I write this, which are needed to make it work.

Here’s some images of the struds and some tidying of the wires and bowden tubes.

Future changes

I think I’m going to combine the Carriage with belt fastener. Not entirely sure yet.

My overall plan has always been to make a Carriage system where I can drop in change between the 5way Diamond and and E3D hotend and such, but not entirely decided yet, how it should work.

Regardless though, I need to make some mounting points for fans on either side of the nozzle.

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BeTrue3D Printer build part 7 – CoreXY and Front Panel

CoreXY Setup

I’ve build a bunch of printers by now, but this is my first CoreXY. I had read quite a bit about it, and also looked at a lot of photos trying to figure out some nice ways to put on the belts.

What I entirely missed was the requirment that all belts, aside from the rear/far right on my printer, must meet the bearings at a straight angle, and leave it at a straight angle as well, which mine did not do (still don’t).

 

This led to some extra hours of tinkering, as I posted some photos online to get some input after my first draft.

I came up a piece of metal for each of the far corners, which I can tilt as needed, to make the inner bearings to line up perfectly with the X sliders.

At my first draft I also had the far ends (away from motors) in two levels, in order for the belts to pass each other.

I later learned I could twist the belts to make them cross on the same level. It is ok to make one of the outer corner idlers a tiny tad lower or higher to make a bit more clearance for the belts.

 

I have ordered some teethed idler pulleys with bearings in them, as I need 4 of those for the idler-posts, where the teeth-side of the belts are touching the bearings.

I’m going to design some sort pieces for the Y sliders to grib the belts coming onto them from the X sliders. As they are now, they are very far from a right angle on the bearings 🙂

Front Panel – magnets

I always close up my printers. Or semi closeup as I do not cover the top usually. This helps keeping a stable temperature in the now-chamber, and greatly enhance the print-quality. Also for PLA.

It also makes it possible to open windows right next to the printer, which is nice.

I cut up some acrylic plate I had to match the front, marked up 3 holes on each side, did a 3mm pilot hole and then almost drilled through using an 8mm drill, which fits the round magnets I have on hand.

Note: I use some old dull metal drill-bits when drilling in Acrylic materials. It works a charm without ruining it.

Don’t despair if you happend to drill all the way through.. I did it myself a couple of times.

Glue in the magnets

I’m using 2 magnets pr. hole, as they aren’t very strong individually. Put a tiny drop of loctite between the two and some locticte in the hole as well.

You can see how this one is drilled all the way through, so just make sure to get some on the edges.

  

And done

Here’s the final piece. 2×3 magnets pr side – you might wonder how it sticks to my aluminium case?

A few posts back, I put on some black glue-on magnet strips I bought for some PC Mod a few years back.

They are very weak, but enough for this job.