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Lets build an Ultimaker 2+ Extended clone – Part 3 – Buy stuff 1

Buy Stuff 1

I originally thought to make just 1 post about buying items, but I quickly realized it wouldn’t be feasible, so I’m splitting it up into parts and doing a sum up in the end.

It’s time to start buying stuff!

I’ll go through the individual items and talk some about what to pay attention to and give a link to the items I bought, and a generic link with search results, but please note that the links might not work when you read this, so you might need to make your own generic search on Aliexpress instead.

Many items can be bought in different versions, so pay attention to the details, like material of the frame and size of filament for the hotend etc.

Ultimaker 2+ Extended frame/case

This is the most expensive piece on our build and it is of course very important.

Things to note:

  • These things can be found in a various materials. We want to get Dibond, which is a sandwich material with aluminium for each side and hard plastic for the center, for all the parts except for the sides of the frame, which are made from acrylic plates.
  • You can get them with Dibond for the sides, but that is up to you. The original is with acrylic sides, for light to shine through. Also heavier when using Dibond sides. It might be more rigid, but I don’t think so.
  • Many sellers feature wooden and all acrylic cases. You do not want to buy these. They are not as rigid and they are much more noisy.
  • They are sold in 3+1 basic versions:
    • Frame including all screws and nuts and the 8x F688-2RS flanged bearings used for the end of each 8mm rod.
    • Frame including all screws.
    • Frame without anything included.
      • The Print Table Back cover for the heated bed should be included with the frame. I have not seen this sold seperately.
        If you don’t see it on the photos and in the description of the item, then ask for it to make sure.
  • I talked about shipping options in Part 2 of this series, and it is very relevant here. I like to buy using DHL, UPS or similar shipping to make sure it all goes smoothly. It also says something about the seriousness of the seller to use a proper shipping company for these kinds of items.

Links for Ultimaker 2 Frame

You might want to search for “Case” as well).

8x Flanged Bearings

If they are not included in your frame, you need to buy 8x F688-2RS bearings.

Link

Experient with free shipping and buying lots instead of individual bearings.

6, 8 and 12mm rods

These are tricky as all the rods I’ve ever bought from China has been bad.

I have not bought any from Aliexpress for a long time, so my advice is that if you do decide to buy rods from Aliexpress you MUST buy them from the same place you buy the above mentioned 8x flanged bearings. Why? Because the “bad” part of the rods is the tolerance that’s been way off, so bearings can’t go over the ends of the rods.

Buying from the same place will place the blame on the seller. If you buy from seperate sellers they can always say it is the other products’ that’s to blame.

These tolerance issues has been because the rods has been coated with some chromeplating (most likely not the right technical terms) put on rods that allready met the right diameters, resulting in rods that are effectively too thick and does not fit into the flanged bearings!

You might have bought rods and used on Prusa printers or other printers where you used ball bearings and not put on snug bearings… yes, that would work fine, but not for our usage.

Recommendations:

Either buy rods and flanged bearings from same seller, or better yet, buy the rods from a known good supplier. I strongly recommend using Motedis.com if you live in Europe, or other similar quality supplier.

Links

Ulticontroller, LCD and SD reader

Things to note:

  • Can be found for around $100 including shipping. Some shops still lists at $140 though, but talk to them about it, if you found a favorite shop or something. They are highly likely to lower the price to match competing shops.
  • The controller is pretty much just an 8bit Arduino Mega r2560 and Ramps build into one and primed for 24v usage. This board does not use normal thermistors though, and has build in 3x pt100 sensor amplifiers, which are rather costly on their own at £15 a piece from E3D!
    • All in all, it means that $100 is really not high price for this controller including lcd and sd reader + cables.
    • A very nice thing about it is how it’s very neat and ordred, so not a lot of wires and stuff sticking out with risk of falling out and ruining your controller.
  • Unless you buy everything at the same place, I’d like to wait a bit with buying this, as it is handy to have 2x PT100 sensors on hand to test it. These two sensors are found on the Heated bed and in the Hotend respectively, and you can’t really test it without these two as the controller is going to just give an error message.
  • You need sensors, motors and an SD card in order to test this. Preferebly some LED’s and a multimeter device as well, to test various output voltages.
  • You can use any 24v psu with at least 16amp, but I recommend buying an original one. I buy mine from an authorized Ultimaker reseller for about $75 including shipping, so it’s actually cheaper than buying on Aliexpress!

Links to Ulticontroller etc.

Current version is 2.1.4 for the Ulticontroller and v2.1.1 for the LCD/SD controller

I’ll strongly recommend you buy the parts as a single package as you’ll find it impossible to prove what went wrong if controller is from one and lcd from another, and something went and died when powered on.

Z-stage

I’m not sure the correct name is Z-stage, but I’m using it to describe the entire moving printbed construction. Ultimaker seems to call it Heated Bed Build platform.

You can buy it assembled/complete but these tends to be very expensive and the individual parts has dropped a lot lately, so either buy them individually or at least talk to the sellers to get the price lowered for the complete sets.

Print Table Base Plate

This is the base plate of the z-stage assembly. Meaning the aluminium plate everything is screwed on to.

Link

Bearings for Z axis

We need 2x LMK12LUU bearings for the Z-axis. You want/need the square models or it wont fit on the Base Plate.

Link

Print table Heated Plate

Special attentions needs to be made when buying the Print Table Heated Plate, as it comes with and without asscessories.

Things to note:

  • The black side with Ultimaker name is actually the underside.
  • Most plates comes without the screw terminals for wires (lengths in link are for normal ultimaker2, so correct as needed.) and the ones with the terminals are often much more expensive. Most comes witout wires as well, which means you need to do some soldering.
  • It is very important that the plate comes equipped with a PT100 sensor as it does not work with the Ulticontroller otherwise. Some comes with nomral Thermistors or without any sensors!
  • The screw holes on the blank sides must be countersunk, or you have to do it yourself.

Link

Print Table Glass

This Print Table Glass plate is actually a pretty expensive piece as it is made from Borosilicate glass. It means you can take it directly from the printer, while it’s hot, and stuff it into your fridge or freezer to make the items pop loose.

You can use plain glass, just don’t stuff it into your oven.

There are Build Platform Glass Retainer clips mounted on the heated plate to hold the glass in place. These are designed for 4mm glass thickness. I’m personally using bulldog clips instead on sides and front, as the original clips are very hard on the fingers.

Links

Expect a price at around $25

Heated Bed Cable Clip

I recommend you just print this Heated Bed Cable Clip. If you don’t own a printer to do it, just use a plastic ziptie untill you can print your own.

You can find the model on my thingiverse collection for Ultimaker 2.

Links

Fingerscrews

The Ultimaker machines use 3 Fingerscrews to adjust the Print Bed.

They are made up of 3x Knurled Nut Platform, 3x Table Springs with dimensions of 15mm long, 9.2mm outer diameter and 1.2mm thick steel. You also need 3x m3 20mm screws with xxx head and 3x M6 washers (6,4mm inner diameter, 12mm od)

The Fingerscrew Knurled Nuts are normally sold alone or along with the springs. I don’t think I’ve ever seen washers and screws included. Notice that some nuts are golden instead of metallic looking.

Link

Heated Bed Glass Retainer Clips

The glass on the print platform is held in place with 4x Heated Bed Glass Retainer Clips. The rear ones are installed using 4x m3 x8mm screws and 4x m3 lock nuts.

The 2 front clips are held in place using the Fingerscrews in one of the holes on the clips – resulting in the clips can be turned open to release the glass. I personally do not use the front clips, as they just kill my fingers, so I’m using the rear 2 clips and use bulldog clips on the sides and front, to keep the glass in place.

I have not seen these be sold along with screws and nuts.

Links

2 thoughts on “Lets build an Ultimaker 2+ Extended clone – Part 3 – Buy stuff 1

  1. Hi,

    The new Ulticontroller 2.1.t is out. It‘s mainly the same like the previous one.
    Only the driver section has changed. Which one you would prefer?
    The 2.1.4 with an extre heatsink in the driver section or the 2.1.5 with easy to replace drivers?

    Kind regards

    Oliver

  2. Hi,

    Have you flash3d the original firmware for um 2 + ext to the board?
    If so, how?

    I started cura and it says wrong hardware for firmware.
    Any tipps?
    Btw: Is it normal that the oled stays dark, when you power on the board (only the green led onboard is on)?

    Regards

    O. Raban

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